Tuesday, January 20, 2015

What is the Best Preservative?



I repeatedly get asked “what is the best preservative to use in my natural product?” so I thought I’d address it here. Basically, there is no ‘best’ preservative and preservatives will behave differently in different formulations. So, unfortunately, there is no way to predict whether or not your preservative will work. It really is a matter of trial and error.

Preserving a product means to inhibit growth of microorganisms. These microorganisms are broken up into two categories; bacteria and fungus (including yeasts). For identification purposes, bacteria are categorized as either gram positive or gram negative. This is dependent on their ability to take up a certain dye which is determined by characteristics of their cell wall. Some preservatives work better at inhibiting one or the other. The term broad spectrum means that the preservative is effective at inhibiting a wide range of microbes in both categories.

Some of the new preservatives, although considered more natural, need to be used at much higher concentrations than some of the ‘tried and true’ preservatives. This may increase the possibility of irritant reactions due to the higher amounts. So please try to use the lowest amount possible that will work in your product.

That said, I’ll go over some of the preservatives that I use for natural products.

Trade Name
INCI Name
usage

Comments
Geogard Ultra (sold by Lotioncrafter as Neodefend)

Sodium Benzoate and Gluconolactone
0.75-2%
Broad spectrum
Approved by ECOCERT. Activity is higher in an acid environment (pH 6).
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Benzoate
0.1- 1%, lower amounts work fine w low pH
Primarily anti-fungal with less anti-bacterial
Its activity increases in a more acid environment. The most effective pH is around 4, at higher pH levels more sodium benzoate is required.
Biguanide 20
Polyaminopropyl Biguanide
0.2-1.5%
Cationic broad spectrum but sometimes weak on fungus
I like it for clear products like distillates, toners. Do not use with xanthan gum or liquid soap.
Leucidal Liquid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
2-4%
Broad Spectrum
Approved by ECOCERT. For me this has not worked well in many formulas. I’ve had some luck using it with rather clear toners though.
Potassium Sorbate
Potassium Sorbate
0.1-0.5%
Primarily Anti-fungal
Most active at pH 4-5, use more above that.
Optiphen
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol
0.5-1.5
Use between pH 4-8. Broad Spectrum
Has worked well in most products for me
Optiphen ND
Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid
0.2-1.2%
Works best below pH 6, broad spectrum
Works well in most products
Optiphen Plus
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid
0.5-1.5%
Works best below pH 6, broad spectrum
Works well in most products
Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol
0.25-1.0%
Most active against gram negative bacteria
More soluble in oil than water which is why it is often sold in a combination.
Plantaservaitve Wsr (Honeysuckle)
Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Lonicera Japonica Extract
.25-1%
Broad Spectrum, Must be neutralized with citric acid first.
Has worked well in some situations.
Phytocide OS
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
1-5%
Broad spectrum
This is oil soluble and I’ve found it to work in limited products.
Linatural NLPO
Citrus Aurantium (orange oil), Cymbopogon Citratus (lemon grass oil), Sesamum Indicum (sesame oil)
.75-2.0%
Broad spectrum
Has worked in some products. Has a quite citrusy aroma.


There are other so called natural preservatives besides these including aspen bark, willow bark, and various fermentation filtrates as well as preservatives based on essential oils.
Some products are just harder to preserve than others, particularly those that contain a lot of herbs and nutrients. Bacteria and fungus love herbs and nutrients as much as we do.

I never recommend silver or Tinosan products. I fear that it builds up in the environment and will cause problems with time. Perhaps I’ll be proved wrong but I am just not comfortable using a heavy metal.

There are many other so called natural preservatives that you can learn about initially by browsing supplier’s websites. If you want to try several, you’ll just have to buy a few, use them in your product and see what happens.

Before paying for expensive challenge testing, try challenging them yourself initially. To do this, make your product, split into several jars and use a different preservative in each jar (measuring each carefully). Stick your dirty fingers into the jar daily over several days and let it set for several weeks to see if visible fungus develops. But remember, just because visible fungus doesn’t grow does not mean your product is not contaminated. The word microbe is short for microorganism. These are things that cannot be seen with the naked eye, sometimes they are even too small to see with a standard microscope. But that does not mean they are not dangerous.

Remember that preservatives are necessary to make a safe product. You don’t want your customers rubbing bacteria and fungus on themselves.

Learn more about Sagescript microbiology testing here.http://www.sagescript.com/microbiology

12 comments:

Christian Bell said...

What an informative post!

I always get nervous when companies say they're all natural, no preservatives, and sell water based products. Marketing should never take precedence over safety.

Stacia said...

Great post! I often get customers who buy my DIY kits and love making their own skin care...many of them want to know more about making their own water-based products as a natural progression into the DIY world. I've shared this on the Handcrafted Honey Bee FB page. Thank you for taking the time to write all this info up!

Donna Maria @ Indie Business said...

What a super handy tool! There are so many preservatives out there, and not all work the same on different products. This charge is a great resource for people to print out for quick reference. Thanks for making this available to everyone!

Lesli Sagan said...

Thanks for writing this up. I don't make water-based products now, but I'm really interested in the possibilities for preserving them.

Alyssa @ Bath and Body Academy said...

Great post! Thanks for taking the time to describe so many preservative options in one place for easy reference. I will definitely share this on the Bath and Body Academy Facebook Page!

Ginger @ Neos Skin Care said...

Fabulous and informative post! And the handy dandy chart is fabulous. Like you emphasized, here just isn't a one size fits all preservative for cosmetic products. And the no preservative option is not a safe option when it comes to water based or water equivalent based products or products that will have water introduced into them such as a scrub. I'll be sharing this post with my customers and fans.

Ginger @ Neos Skin Care said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Renan Kennedy said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Renan Kennedy said...

Hi Cindy,
Funny, we both blogged about the same thing, me from a very different perspective! You much more scientific! I've spoken to you on the phone several years ago when I first started my business and you were so amazingly helpful and patient! You are so knowledgeable, and you have helped me immensely thoughout my journey…thank you so much! xoxo R.

Brenda Sullivan said...

Great article! I've been looking for information about this THANK YOU! This past summer I made a face cream and gave it to 3 people to test. The comments came back glowing - but I'm still not satisfied to market it. Your article will now help me fine tune my face cream. Thank you so much!

shey said...

Hi I was just wondering if you have ever used aspen bark at all? I have this great scrub but it uses aloe vera gel and i am looking for a more natural way to preserve it.

Cindy said...

Shey, I've never used aspen bark. It may work in a scrub. One thing to know about preservatives is that you really can't predict if they will work. You have to try it and see unfortunately.

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