Fractionated coconut oil (FCO) is often used in aromatherapy
and cosmetics because it is a very light, odorless oil. Massage therapists like FCO because
it leaves less of a stain on clothing and sheets than other oils. It is also
used in cosmetics because it gives a lighter feel to a product as well as a
glide. FCO is a very stable oil in that it will not go rancid quickly giving it
a longer shelf life than other oils. FCO is also used in cooking and is said to
not contribute to a rise in cholesterol.
Photo credit: Peter Davis/AusAID, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32167591
But how does it compare to other Coconut oils? Besides FCO
you can readily find coconut oils referred to as 72 degree and 92 degree.
Coconut oil 72 degrees means that it is oil pressed from the
copra (meat) of the coconut and melts between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Most of
this is then refined and deodorized and labeled RBD, but unrefined coconut oil
is also available. Virgin coconut oil is typically made from the milk rather
than the copra.
Coconut oil 92 degrees melts at about 92 degrees Fahrenheit.
It is similar to the 72 degree coconut oil but has been hydrogenated (hydrogen
added across a double bond) so the melting point increases. It is possible to
get coconut oil of higher melting point but these are less commercially
available.
Fractionated coconut oil refers to only the medium chain
fatty acids of coconut oil. Fatty acids which make up triglycerides, come in
different lengths most fall between 4 carbons to 28 carbons. Short chain fatty
acids are defined as less than 6 carbons, medium chain fatty acids defined as
6-12 carbons, long chain as 13-21 carbons and greater than 21 carbons are very
long chain fatty acids.
This is how the fatty acid profile of regular coconut oil
breaks down:
Long chain, saturated fatty acids:
Myristic acid (C14) 19%, palmitic acid (C16) 8%, stearic
acid (C18) 3%
Long chain unsaturated fatty acids:
Oleic acid (C18:1) 5%, linoleic acid (C18:2) 2%
Medium chain saturated fatty acids:
Caprylic (C8) 8%, Capric (C10) 7%, lauric acid (C12) 48%
Fractionated coconut oil refers to just two of the medium
chain fatty acids; caprylic and capric fatty acid. The INCI (International
Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients) for FCO is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
The lauric acid with 12 carbons is borderline long chain and not extracted into
the FCO or also called MCT for Medium Chain Triglycerides.
So how are they separated? The ‘fractionating’ is done first
by hydrolyzing the triglyceride to separate it into glycerol and fatty acids.
This is the same reaction a soapmaker uses to make soap. The fatty acids are
then gradually heated so that the lower carbon chains melt first and the
various fatty acids are ‘fractionated’ or separated. This actual separation is done through
distillation. Once this is finished the result is MCFA for medium chain fatty
acids, rather than a triglyceride. The triglyceride is then reformed by
esterification with glycerin/glycerol to reform the triglyceride or MCT for
medium chain triglycerides, also the fractionated coconut oil. Fractionated coconut oil is commonly referred to as Mixed Chain Triglycerides (MCT). It's INCI name is
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride which refers to the carbon chain length of the fatty acids. |
These reactions that occur (hydrolysis, distillation,
esterification) are generally found to be acceptable in natural products and
green chemistry products. The resulting product is a triglyceride that is
formed from the medium chain fatty acids; caprylic and capric acid. This FCO is
lightweight and absorbs well into the skin, is odorless and has a long shelf
life. It is used as a carrier oil for herbalists and aromatherapists, as a
dietary supplement and as a cosmetic ingredient.
