Monday, July 9, 2012

Lavender Face Mask

We spent the weekend in Western Colorado (Palisade, Grand Junction) for the Lavender Association of Western Colorado's second annual Lavender Festival. It included talks, demos and farm tours. After an event is over I always wished I'd taken more pictures, but here is one showing a workshop on wreath making. I did a small demo at our booth doing a lavender facial, below is the recipe for that.

We also got to spend a little time in the beautiful Colorado National Monument and do our favorite hike to Devil's kitchen. And of course we checked out a few of the wineries and breweries in the area as well. Overall a short, but sweet weekend jaunt!




Lavender Facial Mask
(by Cindy Jones, Sagescript Institute, www.sagescript.com)

1 T Lavender buds/leaves, dried
1 T Red Clover blossoms, dried
1 T Cornflower blossoms, dried
3 T Oatmeal

Mix together in food processor
Add a tablespoon of honey and some liquid. The liquid can be water, juice, even yogurt, but the best choice would be a lavender distillate.

Mix into a suitable texture.

Apply to face, relax w a cup of tea, wash herbs off face.

You can basically use any herb combination you have on hand but use enough oatmeal to give it a sticky consistency.

Enjoy!

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Whats Blooming Wednesday

 We have been busy harvesting and weeding but I wanted to share whats blooming on the farm this week:  Clary Sage which has made it to the still,
 Calendula drying for infusions,
 Hyssop just growing nicely,
 St. John's wort ready to harvest for infusion,
 Cornflower, great for face care but we've not used it yet,
and of course, lavender which we are distilling today.
Hope you enjoy. Cindy

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Hops; more than just beer


Hops


I love hoppy beers like India Pale Ales and Double IPAs.  Hops is a very aromatic herb that adds bittering and a deeper flavor profile, especially to these types of beer.  Depending on the variety though, hops can add much more – sometimes a floral or citrusy flavor and aroma. The effect hops has on relaxation is definitely noted in beer to say the least. But hops are also good for the skin.

The part of hops used is the flower cluster although it looks more like a cone and is called a strobile. The hops vine is quite vigorous and needs a good framework to grow up.

Hops are very good for treating anxiety and sleeplessness. For this it can be used in a pillow or taken as a tincture. The vines of hops have tiny hairs on them that can cause dermatitis during harvest, however, an extract from hops can help dermatitis. Oral administration of hops can also have a beneficial effect on dermatitis. 

Some of the bitter properties of hops are due to polyphenols, resins, essential oils and alpha acids such as humulones. Humulone in hops can have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin and decrease surface blood vessels. It may also have an anti tumor effect.
In one study xanthohumol was found to inhibit elastase and matrixmetalloproteinases. These enzymes in the skin are a significant cause of skin aging as they break down collagen and elastin fibers. When xanthohumol decreases these enzymes, collagen and elastin levels go up. Overall this can improve skin structure. Phytoestrogens in hops such as 8-prenylnaringenin can also have an effect of improving overall skin structure.

According to Wikipedia, hops are toxic to dogs so keep them away from anything made with hops.


References

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

What is Vitamin K

Phytochemical series
Vitamin K

Vitamin K is important in blood clotting, building bones and protecting the heart. This fat soluble group of vitamins is found in a number of plants including asparagus, broccoli and leafy vegetables such as kale and spinach. Herbs high in vitamin K include parsley, basil, sage, thyme, cilantro leaf, oregano and marjoram.

phylloquinone


There are several forms of Vitamin K; vitamin K1 (phylloquinone or phytomenadione), vitamin K2  (menaquinone).  Menadione, or vitamin K3 is a synthetic form of vitamin K that is used as supplements.

Patients taking the drug warfarin (also known as Coumadin) are advised to restrict their intake of vitamin K. Vitamin K is necessary for synthesis of blood clotting proteins in the liver and so it counteracts the anticoagulant effects of warfarin. Vitamin K is good for blood vessel health and can help decrease bruising because of its effects on blood clotting.

In skin care vitamin K is thought to help with conditions having to do with the circulatory system such as dark circles around the eyes, rosacea and redness from broken capillaries (especially on the cheeks). Vitamin K also has some antiinflammatory activities. We use extract of parsley in some products because of its high vitamin K content.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

HR 4262: The Cosmetics Safety Enhancement Act of 2012

Another round of legislation dealing with cosmetics was introduced to Congress March 26 by Rep. Pallone and Rep. Dingell and referred to the Committee on Energy and Commerce. This comes simultaneously with the same Committee holding a hearing (March 27) on “Examining the Current State of Cosmetics.” Testifying at this hearing were Debbie Mays of Wholesale Supplies Plus and Anne-Marie Faiola of Branbleberry. You can read theirs and all the testimonies here:
http://energycommerce.house.gov/hearings/hearingdetail.aspx?NewsID=9394

Not much has been said about this new bill, possibly for two reasons: the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is apparently not behind it, and because the language of the bill is so hard to understand that it seems to require a lawyer to interpret. This bill also is not exactly a new bill but rather an amendment to the current Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. You can read the entire bill here: http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c112:H.R.4262:

Here are some of the highlights of the bill and my commentary.

Registration and Fees
HR 4262 requires all manufacturers (facilities) to be registered with the FDA. I do support registration. It is an important means for communication between the FDA and businesses so that the latest information on safe ingredients and processes can be brought to businesses. However, this bill also requires registration of every product that is manufactured and all the ingredients used as well as their sources. The paperwork involved here would be devastating for small, individually owned businesses that typically do not have employees. The registration process also requires a registration fee of $500 minimum, annually, making starting a small business more difficult.

Good Manufacturing Practices
Currently the FDA has a published guide to good manufacturing practices. You can find these here: http://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/guidancecomplianceregulatoryinformation/goodmanufacturingpracticegmpguidelinesinspectionchecklist/default.htm
While I do of course support good manufacturing practices that would ensure safe cosmetics, many of the current recommendations are not friendly to small businesses.  For instance “Weighing and measuring of raw materials is checked by a second person.” Most small businesses do not have a second person available to double check their work so one person businesses would not be allowed.  And some statements are quite vague and cannot be interpreted such as “Buildings used in the manufacture or storage of cosmetics are of suitable size, design and construction to permit unobstructed placement of equipment, orderly storage of materials, sanitary operation, and proper cleaning and maintenance.”  Any rewriting and enforcement of GMP needs to take small business practices into account, many of which are making product in their kitchens.

Serious Adverse Effect Reporting
Having a way to report serious, adverse events that occur with the use of cosmetics is a must. In this new bill a business must report to the FDA any information received concerning serious adverse events. These are defined as death, life-threatening experience, inpatient hospitalization, disability, disfigurement or incapacity, congenital anomaly or birth defect, or an event requiring medical or surgical treatment.

Safety Substantiation
Section 605 of this bill says: “(2) demonstrate that such cosmetic product is safe”. Without giving any detail as to what kind of information the FDA would be looking for to demonstrate safety leaves this section completely open to interpretation. The question is, who would interpret it?  This concerns me the most and is much different from previous forms of this bill where the responsibility to prove safety was placed on ingredient manufacturers rather than on the individual who makes the cosmetic product. Safety information might include:

-  bacterial or animal testing to show mutagenicity
- animal studies on carcinogenicity
- Draize test for eye sensitivity
- analytical testing for trace minerals (lead, arsenic,mercury)
- skin patch testing for sensitivity
- testing for estrogenic activity/ fish toxicity testing
- microbiology testing for contamination

As a small business, are you prepared to do any of these tests? I’d like to see some specifics here as to what information is required to substantiate safety of a finished product.

Mandatory Recall Authority
Section 608 gives the FDA the authority to recall a cosmetic product that is deemed adulterated if its use would cause serious adverse health consequences. Authority to recall a product to prevent death is always good and the FDA does have this authority with food. Currently companies voluntarily recall any cosmetics products that have been found adulterated such as those that have been found to have high concentrations of potentially harmful bacteria or fungus. This volunteer method has worked well, but there is no harm that I see in making it mandatory.

Unlike previous proposals, this bill does not address safety of individual ingredients but rather just requires that the final cosmetic product be proven safe. Not knowing what would be required here would most likely put more pressure on the small business owner. It also does not ask for full disclosure of ingredients. Important oversights in this bill are allowances for small business and a preemption to prevent states from individually requiring stricter cosmetic laws. If each state has different laws that govern cosmetics, commerce would be stifled.

The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) has suggested in the past that they would introduce legislation, but as far as I know they have not done so. Through its experts, the Council has offered the following specific provisions for Congress to consider when drafting legislation which would bolster FDA’s oversight:
1.  Enacting into law the existing FDA voluntary programs for registration of manufacturing establishments and listing of cosmetic products and their ingredients.
2.  Requiring submission of reports on adverse reactions that are serious and unexpected.
3.  Mandating FDA regulations establishing Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) for cosmetics.
4.  Establishing programs to require FDA to review and determine the safety of cosmetic ingredients and constituents along with strong FDA enforcement.
5.  Requiring FDA review of all CIR determinations on cosmetic ingredient safety and either accept or reject those determinations.
6.  FDA establishment of a national cosmetic regulatory databank for use by other state authorities and the public. 
7.  An unambiguous Congressional determination that, as modernized, the revised statute will apply uniformly across the country.
 “Our industry supports these important reforms and encourages Congress to act on them,” said Lezlee Westine, Council President and CEO. “We are requesting comprehensive, mandatory regulation and our rationale for that is simple: it is in the best interest of regulators, manufacturers and consumers – all of whom will greatly benefit for years to come.” You can read more about that here: http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/newsroom/20120327
Unfortunately, the PCPC also does not ask for accommodations for small businesses.

Read more commentary on this bill here:

Donna Marie of Indie Business:
http://www.indiebusinessblog.com/cosmetic-safety-enhancement-act-of-2012-by-donna-maria/#more-23618

Forbes article by Amy Westervelt:
http://www.forbes.com/sites/amywestervelt/2012/03/30/as-fda-mulls-bpa-decision-congress-looks-set-to-punt-on-chemical-reform/

Lela Barker of Bella Lucce:
http://www.bellalucce.com/thebuzz/archives/001048.php

If you’ve read this legislation, what do you think?

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Lavender Banana Bread

Lavender can be added to alot of basic recipes you already use. This delicious banana bread recipe is a riff on a recipe from "Spike it with Lavender" by Linda Lafferty for The Lavender Association of Western Colorado.

Mix dry ingredients:
3/4 cup white flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1 T dried lavender buds
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda

In another bowl combine:
1 T melted butter
1/2 cup honey (lavender infused honey if you have it)
2 ripe bananas, mashed
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup buttermilk

Mix with dry ingredients and gently fold in:
1/2 cup halfed cherries (frozen)

Pour in greased loaf pan. Cook for 30 minutes at 325 F, until a toothpick comes out clean. Allow to cool for 15 minutes before serving. Enjoy. Do you have a favorite lavender recipe?



Friday, March 2, 2012

What is a Surfactant?

Surfactants are used in many cosmetics as foaming agents, cleansers, emulsifiers, conditioners and solubilizers or dispersants. The word surfactant comes ‘surface active agent’.  They are ingredients that lower the surface tension of a liquid, or another way to put it is that they are ‘wetting agents’.

A single surfactant molecule has two ends; one that is attracted to water (hydrophilic) and one that is attracted to oil (hydrophobic). This property of having both water soluble and oil soluble parts is called amphiphilic (which in my opinion is a very fun word to say). Each end of the molecule can associate with a different environment and bridging them hence solubilizing one in the other enabling dirt and oil molecules to loosen and dissolve in the water.

Soaps are common surfactants but are seldom used in cleansers and shampoos because of their residue. The most common non soap surfactants remain sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate which are both very effective cleansers but some people fine them irritating.

Many modern surfactants are made from oleochemicals (vegetable derived) rather than petrochemicals (petroleum derived) and are also biodegradable. Oleochemicals, or fats used to synthesize these surfactants include palm and coconut oils. These surfactants include the anionic alkyl polyglucosides (decyl, lauryl, and octyl), which are made from fatty alcohols from coconut or palm and glucose from corn starch using green chemistry. Their names vary depending upon the length of the carbon chain.

The lactylates (sodium lauroyl and sodium stearoyl) are food grade emulsifiers made from coconut oil and milk sugar. They are great moisturizers and provide extended fragrance release.
Other natural surfactants include lauryl glucose carboxylate which provides added foaming ability.  Glutamate surfactants such as disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate are mild and made from amino acids. They provide fine lather, good cleansing and are rapidly biodegradable. Vegetable proteins can also be a basis for surfactants such as potassium undecylenoyl hydrolysed soy protein and sodium lauroyl oat amino acids.

Anyone who has taken a physiology class has heard of surfactants that naturally occur in the lungs. Here they prevent the the lungs from collapsing on themselves due to the surface tension of the moisture in them. The alveolar cells of the lungs secrete a lipoprotein that acts as a surfactant.  Because the alveoli (air sacs) of the lungs are coated in moisture the surface tension there encourages collapsing of the alveoli. If the alveoli collapsed, air would not be able to enter. It is the surfactant that allows the alveoli to remain open. Interestingly, during fetal development surfactant production begins rather late. Babies born prematurely before 28 weeks suffer infant respiratory distress syndrome (IRDS) because their lungs cannot stay open and hold air. Follow this link for more information on surfactants.
http://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK/glossary/surfactants_en.html http://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK/glossary/surfactants_en.html

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

We are Certified!






I'm happy to announce that our farm has just become Certified Naturally Grown (CNG). I am excited about this program and you can read more about here http://www.naturallygrown.org/.  Its standards are similar to the USDA's Certified Organic program in that it does not allow synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or GMO seeds. It differs in that it is a small, private and grass roots organization not associated with the government and encourages collaboration, transparency and community involvement.

I've never been quite comfortable with the Certified Organic Program; its a government sponsored program that seems more tailored towards the larger sometimes corporate farms involved in monocropping. Not to mention their ownership of the word 'organic'. USDA COP farm inspectors are forbidden to make suggestions or help the farmers in any way while CNP farm inspectors are peers and volunteers that are encouraged to share information.  I look forward to my first farm inspection this spring by one of my peers who has volunteered to do so and I expect it to be a learning process. I've asked Darrell Cook of Ginger Cat Farm to do my inspection. CNP relies on volunteers like this which encourages community involvement and collaborations.

At Colorado Aromatics Herb Farm I grow things the way my Mother taught me and she learned from her Mother, the traditional way, long before there even were synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides. I do have the benefit of having herbs and lavender as my main crop which are probably easier to grow than vegetable crops. But we fertilize our fields in the winter using manure produced by our horses, goats and chickens. Although we are still learning how to best control weeks; we pick by hand until our backs ache, we use weed cloth and we hoe (we also accept volunteers). We try to reduce the amount of gasoline we use on the farm too by doing most of the work by hand rather than by tractor (we don't own a tractor). Because of the way we farm, beneficial insects such as bees, ladybugs and praying mantis abound. When we do get damaging insects such as aphids our first choice is to take care of them with the garden hose.

I think growing my herbs with the Certified Naturally Grown seal partners well with the extracts I make from them for natural cosmetics. I'll soon be adding pictures and information to our profile at CNG http://www.naturallygrown.org/farms/3421.



Sunday, January 8, 2012

Allantoin in Cosmetics

Allantoin is one of my favorite herb derived cosmetic ingredients. Its chemical name is 5-ureide-hydantoin. It is used in both cosmetics and drug preparations because of its ability to boost wound healing. Studies have found allantoin has wound healing, anti-irritating, hydrating, keratolytic, analgesic, cell proliferative and epithelial stimulating effects.  Its beneficial effect on wound healing seems to primarily be inhibiting the inflammatory response.  Allantoin enhances desquamation of dead upper layers of skin meaning that it promotes exfoliation and thus improves the smoothness of skin.

Allantoin is found in herbs including comfrey, plantain, yam, borage, tea, horse chestnut, uva ursi, and sour cherry stems. It is also found in animals (plants, animals and humans have very similar biochemistry. In fact, at one time blowfly larvae were used to treat severe wounds because of its high content of allantoin.  Comfrey powder was used during WWI to treat wounds.

Allantoin is formed from uric acid which occurs from breakdown of purine.  I love when my current reading takes me back to college biochem classes; ah, yes, purine salvage pathway. Purines include adenine and guanine which make up nucleic acids (DNA and RNA).  The body is very conservative and purines from the breakdown of nucleic acids or foods are typically salvaged to be reused in new nucleotides.  Just in case you are interested in purine metabolic pathways here is a short youtube video I found as a refresher: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIJVb_HXUQk

When purines do breakdown (instead of being salvaged) they form uric acid which in most organisms is converted to allantoin by the enzyme uricase. Humans however, do not have this enzyme and so do not make allantoin, or at least not significant amounts. Allantoin will however, accumulate in times of oxidative stress and is a marker for that. Perhaps the fact that humans do not have the uricase enzyme that breaks down uric acid is the reason humans get gout; a disease caused by accumulation of uric acid in the joints.

But back to allantoins role in skin care. Allantoin is a white, odorless powder that is safe and non-allergenic. Its properties make it appropriate for aging skin, acne skin, scars, psoriasis, eczema, diaper rash as well as just dry, chapped skin. Because its an anti-irritant it is also suitable for very sensitive skin. It is typically used at concentrations from 0.1%  to 2% but sometimes higher for pharmaceutical preparations.

How does Colorado Aromatics use allantoin? In three of our balms we use allantoin containing herbs; comfrey in our Joint Jam for its analgesic effect, plantain in our Knuckle Balm for its wound healing effect and comfrey again in our Sole Pleasure foot butter for its softening and keratolytic effect. In our higher end products we use pure allantoin in our Springtide Antiaging Cream for its skin regeneration properties and antiaging properties and in our Oasis Spray Lotion for its anti-irritant properties. We also use it in our body powder to decrease itching and to sooth rashes.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Herbal New Years Wish

I will give you this New Years Wish with the language a herbs.


Sage for the wisdom acquired this year that will guide you next year.
Angelica to inspire you.
Lavender for devotion.
Fennel to enter the new year with strength
Thyme for courage to face what the new year brings.
Lemon balm for success.
Coriander for health.
Basil for wealth.
Dill for luck and money in 2012.
Yucca for the opportunities the new year brings.
Hyacinth for happiness, love and protection.
and of course the mighty rose to help you find love and beauty.

Wishing you the best for 2012.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Lavender Coffee




I'm always game to try an interesting herb recipe, especially when it involves lavender. I've
heard talk recently of lavender coffee and even heard there's a coffee shop nearby that makes a lavender mocha, although I've not been there yet. So I wanted to give lavender coffee a try. Since I always have milk in my coffee I went about making my lavender coffee by first infusing milk. I put about a cup of milk in a pan with about a teaspoon of lavender buds and heated that briefly while I made a cup of coffee. For the coffee I used an espresso roast which is my favorite; I made this one extra strong to allow for a good amount of milk. When the coffee was finished I strained the lavender buds from the milk and whisked it a little to froth. I poured the milk into the coffee and added a small amount of cinnamon to the top. Because lavender has a very astringent taste I am always careful not to use too much in a recipe. This came out quite delicious though without the astringency common to lavender. I could easily have used more but it was good with this amount.
Later I will infuse lavender in milk to make some hot chocolate. I know that will be good!

If you are interested in using lavender in drinks here are some other ideas you may have heard of:
Lavender Lemonade
Lavender Earl Grey Tea
Lavender Martini (don't infuse this too long as it will get bitter)
Lavender also goes well with many fruit drinks including peach and raspberry. 
I've never had a lavender pale ale  but I think the flavor of lavender would add a nice floral touch to some good hops. I'd love to try on.

Do you have a favorite lavender drink?


Monday, December 5, 2011

Anti-Inflammatory Herbs

Feverfew
Borage

Our skin experiences damage both from within and from environmental factors which lead to inflammation. the pathways involved in this inflammation may be involved in promoting the signs of aging in skin. Antiaging formulas for the skin should therefor contain ingredients that act as anti-inflammatory agents. Following are some herbs that have anti-inflammatory activities that can be used in skin care products.

Antiinflammatory Herbs Used in Skin Care

Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis)
Borage (Borago officinalis)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Chamomile (Matricaria recutita and Chamaelelum nobile)
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Feverfew  (Chrysanthemum parthenium)
Frankincense (Boswellin)
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)
Green Tea (Camellia sinensis)
Holy Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum)
Hops (Humulus lupulus)
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza Glabra)
Mint (Mentha spp.)
Pansy (Viola tricolor)
Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)
Red clover (Trifolium pratense)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Turmeric (Curcuma longa)
White Willow (Salix alba)
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails